Restaurant Guide 2008

By CARIN MOONIN

Now in its fifth year, Lauro keeps the home fires steadily burning, consistently turning out Mediterranean-influenced comfort food that always fits the season. Watch the culinary pros at work in the theatrical open kitchen, anchored by a gas-fired pizza oven, or perch at the bar and delight in the fact that, among the seasonal specialty cocktails scribbled on the chalkboard wall, there's still a great classic Manhattan. Service is friendly and fast, which is good because you won't want to delay the delivery of items like summery butter lettuce salad or a crisp prosciutto, date and arugula pizza. Grilled items show off Lauro's strengths: lamb sirloin, eggplant moussaka and salmon arrive exactly as ordered, with the perfect mix of sear and softness. This neighborhood place isn't going anywhere, which brings relief to us all.

IDEAL MEAL: "Fattoush" chopped salad, grilled sockeye salmon, pudim flan.

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