Restaurant Guide 2007

Under the direction of chef de cuisine Jennifer Buehler, David Machado's excellent Mediterranean bistro (WW' s 2004 Restaurant of the Year) is as good as ever. Reasonable prices and generous portions of astoundingly delicious, thoughtfully prepared dishes still draw crowds every night. Fortunately, Lauro's high-ceilinged space—reminiscent of the dining halls that dot the Iberian peninsula—and open kitchen give you plenty to watch during the inevitable 45-minute wait. Once you get to the table, service is immaculately professional without a hint of snobbishness, the wine list is excellent and the food does not disappoint. A football-sized copper sphere of mussels and chouriço could make a decent entree on its own. Two enormous peaches, wrapped with pancetta, stuffed with goat cheese and served on a bed of rocket, epitomize the flavors of late summer. Salads, from tomato and mozzarella to summer melon and feta, are perfect. If you've still got room for the main course, the pizzas, lamb sirloin and pork loin are excellent. Don't skimp on dessert, either; pastry chef Nancy Forrest's creations are divine. (BW)

Signature dish: Chicken tagine with green olives, fennel, preserved lemon and almond couscous.

Standouts: Anything with shellfish or cooked in the pizza oven.

Regrets: The paella can arrive overcooked and underseasoned.

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