This vaguely Mediterranean kitchen's daring dishes and thoughtful combinations often work handsomely. Begin your meal with a cluster of small shellfish plates: mussels stuffed with chorizo, bathed in saffron-infused broth, or a Moroccan treatment of cockle—cooked in a pot au feu—enriched with a fiery, chili-based sauce. Several vegetable dishes are also pleasant, especially a long plate of late-summer heirloom tomatoes served three ways: sliced and paired with frisée, broiled on a little mound of puff pastry or turned into a crystalline savory granita. A small order of pasta is a must. (RJP)
WWeek 2015