Restaurant Guide 2005

By BECKY OHLSEN

Talk about class. The RingSide's been demonstrating the concept to the masses since 1944. Known for service as top-notch as its steaks—servers in tuxes, a time-capsule bartender who looks like Ed Sullivan—it's also a cool, dark haven from every aspect of West Burnside Street. Best of all, even impoverished writers and their ilk can get a taste, thanks to the heaven-sent $2.25 happy hour menu. Real meat connoisseurs shouldn't miss the chance to sample the RingSide's aged, bone-in beef, but those less fortunate can totally clean up on the so-called small plates of steak bites, fish bites, oyster shooters and very substantial ground steak burger. Even vegetarians can do pretty well with a combination of soups and starters. Anyone can live the high life; make it happen. (BO)

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