Cheap Eats 2008

By SAUNDRA SORENSON

Like a provincial grandmere's kitchen with high street visibility and seasonal sidewalk seating, St. Honoré is an over-stimulating mix of French culinary delights. Shelves of fresh bread resemble an abstract ("Exercise in Grain"), and the sandwiches—like the caramelized pear-stuffed Brie Bartlett ($6.75) and the Chicken Crudité ($6.15), a delicious, tarragon-heavy take on chicken salad—are filling warm-ups for the high-end dessert case. The Hazelnut Caramel Dacquoise ($5.75) is a meal in its own right, pitting hazelnut-praline buttercream against caramel ganache and a crunchy, spirited dacquoise, transitioning to another grand French tradition: the post-coital cigarette. (SS)

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