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June 26th, 2007 Ian Gillingham | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2007

     
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The slim sandwich pickings at Ken Forkish's bakery leave no doubt that the bread is king and the filler is just that—a few tastes carefully selected to highlight the slabs of leavened goodness they grace. The croque portabella ($6.45) a veggie take on the ham-and-cheese croque monsieur sets off a hearty country levain with creamy béchamel and the bite of melted Gruyre while the supple ciabatta under the tangy pulled pork ($7.50) is strong enough to absorb the sauce without buckling. If you're just popping in for a breakfast bite of course there's a flaky croissant with your name on it. (IG)

 
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