February 17th, 2006 12:00 am Elizabeth Dye | Food Reviews & Stories

Dish Review

Laurelwood has already achieved, ahem, laurels for its organic brewing techniques, and its newer Northwest location falls squarely in the category of “gastropub,” the term for a tavern with a focus on fine dining.The menu carries through Laurelwood’s mix of casual pub grup and upscale entrees. The first type of cuisine is the best—a sloppy, guacamole-laden quesadilla, the house specialty, garlic fries, and generous, affordable grilled burgers (beef, chicken, turkey or garden.) Things get a little shakier when it comes to the fancy feasting; some of the entrees, like the stuffed portabella mushroom, seem overpriced and at odds with the Spartan seating and un-pub-like overbright lighting. The shepherd’s pie, a nod to traditional English pub fare, is a welcome exception, combining savory roast meats with onions, garlic and carrots in that spectacular gravy. (Originally reviewed 4/20/05.)
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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