The Laurelwood brand of good local brew, plus a play area for parents to plunk down their tykes while the adults suck down pale ales and porters, has proven a huge hit. So much of a hit, in fact, that this brewpub moved last year into the former Sylvia's Dinner Theatre space. Laurelwood's bar-food menu went with the move. Best bets: a bowl of vegetarian black-bean chili ($5) to warm the soul on a cold day, and the spinach salad ornamented with walnuts and grapefruit ($8.95) as a healthy sop for a coupla pints. If you just don't give a damn about calories when you're out drinking, chow down on the organic, free-range, red-barbecue-bacon cheeseburger ($9.50). (HS)