All you need to know about the Morton's Steakhouse chain is contained in the slogan on its menu: "The Best Steak Anywhere!" The Morton's experience is designed for the accidental tourists, the business travelers with fat expense accounts who want to parachute into a city and, when feeding time rolls around, have a rich, reliably excellent meal ("The Best Steak") in a well-appointed, clubby environment that's virtually identical from city to city ("Anywhere"). Make no mistake, the beef is worth the hype (and the megabucks)�tender, flavorful, grilled with a spatula in one hand and a stopwatch in the other. But in a city that makes a culinary cult of local ingredients and character, Morton's one-slab-feeds-all approach makes for an odd fit. We can only assume that's part of the plan, too. (IG)