Dish Review

With softly flattering votive candles everywhere, the dining room, housed in an 1890s Victorian, is both sophisticated and cozy. A bonsai sits atop each table, and strains from Gerry Mulligan's sax haunted the room on each visit. The prix fixe menu ($39; a six-course grand tasting menu costs $55) includes three of the four courses—appetizer; fish and shellfish; meat, poultry or vegetarian; and dessert or cheese. The fish course might be a snapper whose skin has been crisped and cradles plump mussels bathed in a cucumber brother; the beautifully prepared loin of roasted deer is juicy, its gamey flavor complemented with hints of grass and cedar. (Originally reviewed 10/26/05.)

WWeek 2015

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