May 21st, 2008 Ethan Smith | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Drink 2008

     
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Nearly too slick for its own good, Slow Bar manages to walk a razor’s edge. This sleek shotgun shack of a bar somehow balances a thrashy punk jukebox with a menu featuring ceviche. And it works. Decide for yourself if you’re brave enough for raw fish with your wells, but Slow Bar’s menu is nothing to sneer at. The Slow Burger ($9)—free-range beef smothered in Gruyére and onion rings—is about as good as bar food gets. Black-clad bartenders look primed for too-cool rudeness, but are actually friendly and attentive. Drinks are creative and well-crafted without getting froofy (with the exception of the “Chai Tea,” made with brandy and Earl Grey). Slow Bar’s pretentious lack of any signage that actually reads “Slow Bar” (look for the elk head-profile logo, instead) seems like a magnet for Pearlites slumming on the eastside. But a down-to-earth service-industry crowd keeps the bar honest.
Perfect Patron: Fine-dining waitress utterly tired of fine diners. (ES)
HAPPY HOUR 3-6 PM DAILY: $1 OFF BEERS, $2.50 WELLS, FOOD SPECIALS.
TV, JUKEBOX.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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