Suck it up and wade through the endless used-car lots and payday loan vendors on Southeast 82nd Avenue until you reach Malay Satay Hut, Portland's favorite Seattle import. Order the stir-fried eggplant with red and green peppers ($9.95) or the crispy and sweet stir-fried mango tofu ($10.95), a dish that will make you fall in love with bean curd all over again. (LK)