A Culinary Institute of America graduate running a floating restaurant in Scappoose? Sounds like a crazy idea, until you sit down at a romantic little table on the very edge of chef Mark Altstetter's pier and watch the moon rise over Sauvie Island as ducks glide silently by. Then Mark's far-out address seems like a stroke of brilliance. The kitchen offers casual grub like burgers and mix-and-match pasta dishes for the windblown boaters who dock here, but the more interesting dishes like the fiery chili Colorado atop sweet corn cakes and multi-meat-loaded Brazilian feijoada are telling of the chef's passion and pedigreed training. (IM)
WWeek 2015