Cheap Eats 2010

Tucked into the pyramidal building on Northeast Sandy Boulevard that last housed Pho Oregon, Pho An is a fluorescent-lit oasis of homey Vietnamese chow—complete with warbling Asian standards in synth strings on the speakers and every kind of pig and beef part imaginable bobbing in the restaurant's heady, aromatic broths. Do slurp down a sweet Viet iced coffee and one of the best bowls of pho ($7-$8) in town for breakfast, doctored up with sugar-pepper, basil, lime and chile sauce. Come back anytime for heaping bowls of vermicelli noodles and char-grilled shrimp ($10), little steamed rice flour rolls stuffed with bologna ($7.50), or a rich, star anise-spiked bowl of fish-saucy stewed beef and carrots served with a mini loaf of French bread (also $7.50)—Vietnam's addictive riff on boeuf bourguignon

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