August 9th, 2007 Mike Thelin | Food Reviews & Stories
 

     
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Dove Vivi fills a niche, bringing deep-dish cornmeal-crust pizza to Portland. Gavin Blackstock, 26, and Delane Hamik, 25, worked for a year at the famous L.A.-area pizzeria Zelo before debuting Dove Vivi—whose menu is identical to Zelo's—in June in the just-off-Northeast 28th Avenue space most recently home to Kustom Pizza.

Dove Vivi's pizza is a gooey, cheesy, knife-and-fork pie. The cornmeal crust packs acres of crunch, and combinations like housemade sausage, sweet peppers and onions on red sauce with mozzarella are pretty darn good ($20 whole, $10.50 half, $3.75 slice). Still, though the crust is memorable, the toppings hardly wow. Plus, salads—such as an insipid marriage of black beans and broccoli—felt lifted from the grunge era. I'll skip the salad, but I'll be back for the pie.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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