Dinner 6-10 pm Thursday-Saturday, breakfast 9 am-3 pm daily. $$ Moderate.
[BORK! BORK! BORK!] Though it began serving dinner in 2008, the Scandinavian-inflected Broder is known to most Portlanders as a breakfast place. That's too bad. The dinner menu is both homey and playful, with items like a crawfish boil and fish cakes, as well as various "bords" for diners who prefer to graze. The Surf Bord is a selection of well-executed gravlax (salmon cured in salt, sugar and dill), pickled herring and smoked white fish served with housemade pickles and rye breads on a wooden board; it's delightful finger food. The Swedish meatballs in sherry cream and the lamb burger are worthy of attention. One of the treats of eating at Broder are the fixin's—from a mustardy rémoulade to crisp pickled beets and some of the best rye breads in town—which add depth to every dish. The long, casual dining room is adorned with charming Scandinavian decor. Service can be slow, but order yourself a flight of chilled aquavits (a distilled Scandinavian liquor with caraway, cardamom and anise; $15) and you'll hardly notice. HANNA NEUSCHWANDER.
Ideal meal: Fried fish bites ($8), Scandinavian shrimp salad ($11) and Broder's excellent Swedish meatballs ($11) is plenty of food for two to share.
Best deal: The Stockholm hot dog ($8) is street food surf 'n' turf—a frank wrapped in a potato pancake, topped with shrimp ($2). Yeah.