Restaurant Guide 2008

Unlike his other wee cute restaurants, Beast and D.O.C., Micah Camden's capacious izakaya is all about style. The showy metallic building conceals one of the sexiest dining rooms in town, all red wood, low benches and recessed lighting, capped with a sakura mural on one end and a wall of sake on the other. Out back, a lush, overgrown garden surrounds a patio scattered with bright red Jetsons chairs. The food is a mix of hot and cold small plates and very large servings of sushi rolls. The menu has changed a bit since we visited in early September, with the addition of a $48 chef's tasting menu, but we loved the spicy tuna rolls, rare grilled duck breast in yakitori sauce and lamb tsukune (a spicy meatball, essentially). Drinks? I recommend Whiskey Nos. 1, 2 and 3.

IDEAL MEAL: Seasonal green salad, fried pork tenderloin, duck yakitori, tuna or crab roll.

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