The Observatory: Restaurant Guide 2010

11 am-10 pm Sunday-Monday, 11 am-midnight Tuesday-Saturday. $$ Moderate.
[COMFORT FOOD] Time was, a trip to the Academy Theater in Montavilla meant just one thing: dinner at Ya Hala beforehand. But that changed last year, when the Observatory divided our loyalties with its siren song of golden rosemary-garlic fries, inventive twists on cafe standards and a veggie burger that even carnivores order repeatedly. The soothing color scheme, accented by a minimalist chandelier, helps create a casual-chic vibe (though the concrete floor does add to the ambient sound level). A spacious bar hints at the elaborate cocktail menu, but don't be fooled into thinking the Observatory is just a glorified bar. Try the mussels, which are served in either a ginger-sake broth or a white wine one that's dotted with chorizo—either way, the bivalves are plump, sweet and grit-free. Even something as plebeian as chicken-fried chicken is a revelation: To say this vast scallop of surprisingly tender, panko-coated chicken is upstaged by its accompanying sweet-potato hash is only a testament to that side dish's savory appeal. Or try a creamy riff on a niçoise salad that's rich with house-smoked trout. No matter your entree, you won't have room for dessert. Which is fine—we'd rather end things with one of the sweet-toothed cocktails. Come to think of it, maybe we'll stay for another, and skip the movie. HANNAH FELDMAN.
Ideal meal: Rosemary fries and a bowl of mussels, followed by the smoked trout salad.
Best deal: During happy hour, the fries and mussels will cost you all of $7.
Chef's choice: "Roasted pork tenderloin in apple guajillo sauce with seared polenta cakes and greens." (Dale Warriner)

WWeek 2015

Willamette Week’s reporting has concrete impacts that change laws, force action from civic leaders, and drive compromised politicians from public office. Support WW's journalism today.