If your Jewish mother were Vietnamese, she'd be proud of the chicken noodle soup ($7.50) served in this place hard off well-traveled Sandy Boulevard: tasty noodles with a salty, spice-laden broth sure to make you awaken at 3 am, happily parched. Combine that soup with appetizers of spring rolls ($5) and pot stickers ($4) and you've got more than enough for a meal. Shrimp fried rice ($8.50), though, is a dry disappointment. As for the decor, well—if Papa Hemingway were around today, it might inspire a sequel to "A Clean, Well-Lighted Place." (HS)
By HANK STERN
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