The latest addition to the Gourmet Gulch at Northeast Killingsworth Street and 30th Avenue, D.O.C. is a storefront meant to feel like a chic Italian grandma's kitchen. Really, her kitchen: The dishwashing station is immediately on your left as you walk in, with the cooking area on your right. It's an audacious design move, but it may not look so swift when winter sets in and people waiting for tables find themselves loitering in the middle of a slammed kitchen. The back of the space accommodates about 24 diners, and more tables are added on the sidewalk when weather permits. While it's only been open a few months, we predict this will be one of Portland's most exciting new spots. Our meals at D.O.C. have been bodacious—the food is inspired and the wine list is shrewd. This latest outpost of the Beast/Yakuza gang is a restaurant to watch.

IDEAL MEAL: A starter of squid, cherry tomatoes, oil-cured olives and fennel fronds; tender, oil-poached albacore in a spicy purée of peaches and Padrón chiles.