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March 10th, 2010 HANNA NEUSCHWANDER | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2010

     
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One of the most touted of 2009's new micro-roasters. Owner, roaster and pro snowboarder Wille Yli-Luoma made a serious investment in the interior of this cafe that almost makes you forget you’re on a dreary stretch of East Burnside Street. The vibe: European subway station meets 19th-century curio cabinet. The tentacled, fire-breathing roasting machine in the middle of the shop makes you feel like a guest in a science experiment gone right. In perfect sync with the technological dreamscape, the end of the coffee bar is dominated by a siphon setup, where you can drop $6 on coffee that tastes distinctly like tea (it's a good thing). Heart’s focus on single-origin coffees turns up a tendency for astringent flavors, but the overall experience is—pardon the pun—heartening. Pastries and perfect pies from Random Order are available.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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