November 30th, 1999 NICK ZUKIN | Food Reviews & Stories
 

     
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Hidden in the back of a tiny strip mall across from Syun Izakaya, this Guatemalan restaurant and bakery can sometimes be worth seeking out. You can hear the cook pat out pupusas for each order. They’re generous with the fillings, but the flavors are unbalanced. The curtido is average at best, yet the tomato salsa—studded with chunks of tomatoes intermingled with sweet onion and plentiful herbs—accompanying the pupusas is uniquely noteworthy. I ate it by the spoonful. Their tamal dough, wrapped around raisins and whole chicken wings (skin, bones, and all), is almost too moist, easily falling apart. But the meaty flavor makes up for this minor annoyance. Don’t pass up the baked goods made fresh daily or other Guatemalan specialties like the pepian.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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