Cheap Eats 2011: Best Taste

Best Taste brands itself as "Chinese BBQ," and the owners aren't kidding; this meat bears no resemblance to its American cousin. Right by the doorway fire-reddened ducks are strung up at the neck, while the rear quarters of pigs hang from wire looped into their unmentionables. Neither the butchering nor the spicing is tempered for American palates, which means you get everything from crispy skin to fat to bone in your literal cross-section of duck or pig ($7.50 and $8.45, respectively, with rice and bok choy garnish). The restaurant's wide array of won ton noodle soup includes the wonderful acquired taste of pickled green soup with pork ($7), which over the course of its voluminous bowl went, for this palate, from over-tart to fantastically sui generis. Amid the 100-plus menu options, though, what always keeps this reviewer returning is the killer all-day dim sum, including shumai dumplings ($2.50 for 4), black-bean spareribs ($2.50) and sweet egg-glazed buns ($2). Plus, the fact I can hear the family's TV from their upstairs living space lets me know they've really committed to the place.

WWeek 2015

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