You may not realize, upon first visiting J&M Cafe, that you’ve never been there before. It is so very Southeast Portland in all the best ways, with brick walls, exposed wooden rafters, local and organic everything, self-serve Stumptown and a silly, tattoo-inspired logo featuring a winged pig head. So why choose J&M over the rest? Well, its relative obscurity helps keep brunch lines down, and it’s so centrally located it’s not much of a trek from any quadrant. But the best part is the breakfast menu, a revised version of which is held over for lunch. Meat-lovers choose the J&M Plate, with melted cheeses and basted eggs laid over English muffins, crisscrossed by ridiculously succulent slabs of Willamette Valley bacon ($7.95). Herbivores go for the French toast made from a baguette ($7.25) and, to keep things savory, a side of the crispy grilled grits ($3.50). Ain’t nothing like a true Southeast breakfast.