While the elegant light fixtures and decoratively carved wooden booths might indicate spendy dining, Pho Van on Hawthorne is a good bargain. Although takeout is nice, with good service and nice paintings, Pho Van is one of Hawthorne’s most coveted pho eateries. The beef and chicken versions ($7-$8) are steamy, savory and way more than anyone should eat in a single sitting, as many phos are. But pho can be found on every corner, and Portland’s not starved for good decor. Pho Van’s real hidden gem is its honey lemongrass noodle entree ($8-$9), which is moist and intensely flavorful. And if you’re not too full of pho and lemongrass, the ginger crème brûlée ($5) is like none before it. So next time you’re stranded on Hawthorne and want a cozier dining experience than a food cart can offer, ask yourself if you feel like pho.