It’s a good thing Brian Steelman’s taquerias don’t call
on that electric yellow margarita mix that turns your fingers into
sticky toys from the 25-cent machine—the food is sloppy enough, not to
mention that the fresh-squeezed citrus and pomegranate juice you’ll find
here could dress up even a bottle of Tortilla Gold). ¿Por Qué No?’s
mounds of oily avocado jabbed with bullets of fresh-caught calamari and
bell peppers barely tamed in their corn or flour tortilla casing are,
like, the best thing I ever struggled to slop into my mouth. Housemade
chips are the byproduct of tortillas cooked into crispy, geometric salt
ships for importing creamy, mint-green guacamole to your face hole. Take
a look at the menu before you go as the style of order is: Stand, say,
grab ticket and get out of the way. There are some starving kids in
skintight jeans behind you.

