11:30 am-10 pm Monday-Tuesday, 11:30 am-midnight Wednesday-Sunday. Cash only.

One may be accustomed to seeing buildings built around trees or hillsides, but a full-size bus? A retrofitted espresso and ice cream truck ("Gargoyle's Den" still emblazoned on the side) houses La Estacion's kitchen, protruding comically through a wall of its building. Speaking of landmarks, this Cully neighborhood diamond in the rough shares its parking lot with the strip club the Sugar Shack—but that's where any dubiousness begins and ends. The fresh smell of corn tortillas hits you upon entry: Tacos are cheap and abundant ($1), with enough cilantro and pickled onion to make you divorce Tex-Mex forever. If light and varied isn't your style, try the Taqueria's giant, perfectly toasted tortas ($4), easily enough to share. The real treasures, however, are the panuchos ($1.50 with avocado), a Yucatecan dish that fills a fried tortilla with bean paste and tops it with lettuce, chicken, onion, tomato, avocado and chiles. CAITLIN MCCARTHY.