When Bacchus closes a brewpub, he opens a wine bar. In the sunken space that once housed Roots Organic Brewing, Vie de Boheme Winery (1530 SE 7th Ave., 360-1233, viedebohemepdx.com) continues serving local pours, but has changed the tipple to Columbia River Gorge Merlot. The space is intended to feel like a candlelit Parisian wine cellar; in execution, it feels like an airy European furniture showroom. But louder: On a recent Saturday night, most conversation at the round bar is interrupted by blasts of rumba drumming from the side tasting room. "I think the band is probably bored," explains the barback, "so they're in there." Anyway, the Lyle, Wash., house wine is a friendly quaff and the 2009 Burdigala Blend is hearty and very sweet. It reminds me of birthday cake in a glass.