There are many reasons to resent the resurrection of Trader Vic's (1203 NW Glisan St., 467-2277, immediately upon entry to its new Pearl dives: The wooden idols bearing torches on the sidewalk, the waterfall in the foyer, the decor twinned to Disney's Polynesian Resort, the menu plastered with mortifyingly named items like the "Maui Waui" Shrimp. (It does not help that when you faintly order the shrimp, the waitress replies cheerfully, "The Maui Waui?") Yet it is nearly impossible to hold a grudge against the return of the Bay Area-bred franchise, not after devouring a $3 basket of fries with curry ketchup, and especially not upon realizing that two of the signature $8 Mai Tais—pebbled with hailstones of ice and sweeter than the love of some foreign god—are capable of making you forget your surroundings entirely.