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Home · Articles · Food & Drink · Bar Reviews · Lutz Tavern: Happy Returns
November 16th, 2011 BEN WATERHOUSE | Bar Reviews
 

Lutz Tavern: Happy Returns

barspotlight_lutz_3802LUTZ TAVERN - IMAGE: Ro Tam
7 Comments
     
Tags: lutz tavern

In its previous life—which ended last year after 63 years—Lutz Tavern (4639 SE Woodstock Blvd., 774-0353) was known nationally as the bar where hipsters discovered Pabst Blue Ribbon. It was a true dive, but one with outsize influence among bike messengers and other curators of cool. The revived Lutz, which was reopened two weeks ago by Clinton Street Pub owners Jayson Criswell and Robert Kowalski, retains the old look and clientele: The lineup at the bar on a recent Friday was plaid, fleece, tweed, plaid, plaid, plaid and tweed. The PBR is still there, $2 per tallboy, along with four other macros, but the new regime has made a few important changes: Lutz now has liquor, eight taps of good Northwest micros, and a real kitchen that makes a kick-ass burger. It comes with shoestring fries and, for an extra $2, house-cured bacon.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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11.16.2011 at 11:56 Reply
dmi

Don't be silly.  The beer of choice at the Lutz was Blitz, and hipsters discovered Pabst Blue Ribbon via the movie Blue Velvet.

It's nice that the new Lutz has a real kitchen, but have they brought back the hot pickle?

 

11.16.2011 at 01:08

Lutz served Blitz until Blitz disappeared in 1999, when they switched to Pabst. See the following passage from Rob Walker's story "Pabst Unsold":

You can tell Scott Proctor is a beer veteran — he refers to bars as ''accounts.'' He spent years working for Oregon's Blitz-Weinhard before its brands were sold or discontinued and its brewery shut down in 1999. A few months ago Proctor joined Pabst as its Oregon sales manager. He remembers Pabst having ''a minute base'' in Portland — four years ago the company had just 41 accounts there. Today the number is more than 10 times that. Proctor is 48, affable and openly baffled by the ''weird'' P.B.R. base. ''I've seen some different accounts than I would normally see, if I was gonna go have a beverage myself,'' he says. ''I had to open my mind a little bit.''


We visited the Lutz Tavern, a homey place with a pool table and an apple-green linoleum bar top. Slumming students here used to drink Blitz, now a defunct brand. But in 1999 the owner decided to start selling cans of Pabst for $1 (they cost the bar about 35 cents each) as a summer special. More than four years later, the sale hasn't ended, and P.B.R. is the bar's top seller. As ''Planet Claire'' played on the jukebox, the bartender and a few post-college-age patrons, all drinking cans of P.B.R., mulled the state of the brand. They promptly brought up the no-advertising thing, and while the subject of poseurs treating the beer as a fashion accessory came up, it didn't seem like much of a problem. They encouraged us to eat at the Delta Café, down the block, which sells southern-style food and, for $3, 40-ounce PBRs served in a small bucket of ice.When we drove though the vaguely bohemian Hawthorne neighborhood, every bar seemed to have a PBR sign. In the Fred Meyer grocery store, there was more shelf space in the cooler for PBR than for Budweiser. It was like a parallel universe.

We ended up at the dank and scruffy Ash Street Saloon, where I met a 28-year-old named Phil Barnes, who recently went through four tattoo sessions to get a Pabst logo about a foot square burned into his back, which he showed me. ''Pabst is part of my subculture,'' he said, somewhat emphatically. ''It's the only beer I think about.'' He's a skateboarder, works as a cook and describes his peer group as ''scumbag punk rockers.'' Barnes was a little cagey about talking to me at first — his friends worried that somehow a picture of his tattoo would get used to promote Pabst and he wouldn't be compensated. Later, however, he noted that he had never seen a Pabst ad of any sort, which he liked because it showed that "they're not insulting you."

A couple of weeks earlier, a local alternative paper, Willamette Week, ran a big picture of a guy drinking P.B.R. at the Lutz Tavern, with a blurb that mocked ''middle-class, college-educated, salaried Portland hipsters'' for drinking P.B.R., and raised the connection to Miller Brewing: ''It's totally not indie rock! So there!'' Barnes had given this a lot of thought, and had concluded that he did not care. ''The only thing that's going to stop me from drinking Pabst is when I die,'' he said, lighting a cigarette.

I also talked to the bike-polo crowd about this. Ryan Kelley, a mild-mannered guy who actually arranged the first P.B.R. sponsorship, allowed that the beer's newfound popularity was slightly annoying. ''But basically,'' he said, ''we're going to drink whatever beer costs a dollar.''

 

11.18.2011 at 10:40

Sigh.

Remember when you could have bars and pubs without making it into some sort of hipster masturbatory meaning-fest? When you could just drink a beer and eat a burger without asshats surrounding you with iPhones snapping photos with their "vintage" -making apps?

And so on. Fuckin' a. Hipster arguing about which shitty, cheap-ass beer they like? Are you serious?

 

11.18.2011 at 10:43

It gets worse: PBR is no longer the hipster beer of choice, so Lutz has Rainier on tap. But it also has really good brews from Boneyard, Everybody's Brewing and other good craft brewers. Based on my last visit, the place isn't flooded with scenesters.

 

11.19.2011 at 07:13 Reply

If you havent had the Fried Pork Loin Sandwich here then you are missing out on something special. Anyhow, Ive been here quite a few times since it re-opened and I think it gets a fairly diverse crowd. Certainly not overflowing with skinny jeans people. No Budweiser of any kind. I like that. No schnappes of any kind either. I dont know, I think the place is pretty cool. They chose to have Rainier because every bar in Portland has Pabst on tap, so they thought theyd have their one cheap tap be something different. No reason to hate, or look to deeply for something that isnt there......

 

12.14.2011 at 06:11

No damn video poker!!!! Yes!!! And it is impossible to get dirty in the office.

 

02.05.2012 at 06:52 Reply

yes, always was known for Blitz. Got my keg there for my wedding over 25 years ago as our best man's family owned it. Miss going there

 

 
 

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