Horse Brass proprietor Don Younger was an icon and instigator, deserving much credit for putting Portland toward the top of the American beer scene. Younger passed away in January, just missing the chance to celebrate the 35th anniversary of his legendary Southeast Belmont Street pub. One of his last pet projects was a beer to celebrate that occasion, commissioned from California's Russian River Brewing. Russian River produces several of the country's most sought-after brews—Pliny the Elder, Supplication, Blind Pig—and the company not only brewed Horse Brass the sort of hoppy, low-alcohol session beer Younger requested but gave it an epithet echoing the Roman naming convention reserved for its flagship. The brewer's Santa Rosa pub and Horse Brass are the only places to get a pint of this grassy and very still ale. Younger was rarely spotted without a cigarette; a trace of tobaccolike resin is a fitting quirk.