Portland has nearly 40 brewing companies, which get wildly varying amounts of hype. Among the most neglected is Philadelphia’s Steaks & Hoagies. It doesn’t help that the word “Brewing” isn’t in the name. Yet only a half dozen local breweries have been around longer than this Sellwood cheesesteak shop. With its three-barrel system, Philadelphia’s was Oregon’s smallest licensed microbrewery until Portland U-Brew & Pub set up down the block six months ago. Nine of Philadelphia’s 10 beers are on the lighter, “sessionable” side. The only knockout beer is the barrel-aged Betsy Ross Golden Ale. Starting with a lighter, golden ale that’s 5.2 percent alcohol, it’s aged in a Syrah wine barrel. It picked up no alcohol, but has abundant oak, fruit and enough vinous sour zing to make this an interesting and unusual session beer. The Syrah-matured Betsy Ross is worth the price of admission, though it’s not quite sequel-worthy.