Which comes first, the pun or the menu? "We knew we wanted to do breakfast," says the guy inside the bright-yellow Fried Egg I'm in Love cart on Hawthorne. "We thought about something NPR-themed."

This American Egg? "Yeah, that was one. Or All Eggs Considered."

Having cured the name problem another way, Fried Egg put together a simple menu that's impressive in quality, if not variety. Everything at the cart, which opened in April, is a sandwich served standard on lightly toasted sourdough bread. All but the peanut butter and jelly ($4) and a vegan-friendly black bean and veggie blend ($5) are built around the eggs. Shrewdly, owners Jace Krause and Ryan Lynch, who are bandmates in a spacey folk group called Fort Union, also grabbed a bunch more egg puns off the table. Sorry to would-be operators of Huevo Mutilation and Free-Range Against the Machine—those are now items on another cart's menu.

The eggs really are just like a dream. Lightly fried with an orange-colored spice they call "magic egg dust" (I won't ask them how they do that trick, but it has a dash of the familiar), they're a great foundation. The Yolko Ono ($6), topped with pesto, Parmesan and hand-pressed sausage, is one of the best breakfast sandwiches in town. The OK Commuter ($5.50), bacon, cheddar and an over-hard egg that's just a little runny in the middle, is a great quick, clean-fingered breakfast on the go. It's also notable that service is shockingly fast—important and sadly rare in a breakfast-sandwich game where too many carts make it feel like you've waited hours for this.

Take a big bite. It's not quite a gorgeous sight, but it's a damn good sandwich.

  • Order this: The Yolko Ono, $6.
  • I’ll pass: For 75 cents you can upgrade to a “farm-fresh” egg. We didn’t notice much of a difference from the regular egg.

EAT: Fried Egg I'm in Love, 3217 SE Hawthorne Blvd., friedegglove.com. 8:30 am-3 pm Wednesday-Friday, 9 am-3 pm Saturday-Sunday.