Skip to main contentPortland is a collection of neighborhoods, each of which makes a distinctive statement and contribution to the civic whole. Every Portland neighborhood needs a destination like the J&M Cafe, an inviting, comfortable, instantly put-you-at-your-ease kind of place.
More often than not, simple, unpretentious cafes like J&M (named for former owners) feature the most obviously casual dishes, which are gastronomic versions of Portland's vaunted fleece attire (fleece hash, anyone?). But J&M surprises and wins acclaim for its modest inventions, as well as its care in turning out delicious renditions of familiar items.
The cafe, known for years as an always-mobbed breakfast place, added dinner service not too long ago. Its evolution turns it into a simple bistro, an elementary trattoria and an artless taverna all rolled into one.
At night this area becomes inner Eastside at its most noirish, which makes it all that much nicer to discover a space lit by multiple votive candles. Inside you'll also find a jug of water on each table; water glasses gleaned from preserve jars; a sparkling sculptural "tree" holding dozens of upside-down wineglasses like so many crystalline bats hanging from their perches; framed mirrors across the brick walls; and a shiny green floor that sets off the lofty industrial beams. There's no white tablecloth, just butcher paper and a bunch of crayons on the table.
Several items on the menu change frequently, but over several months there's a reliable core of dishes. The number of offerings is modest: five or so appetizers (labeled simply "Smaller," though the portions are remarkably generous), the same number of entrees (labeled "Larger," natch). For some odd reason an appetizer-sized onion tart shows up in the latter section; think of it as an appetizer that drifted out of its domain.
The most welcome starter is a salad of watercress ($5.95), generously mounded, vibrantly green and perfectly dressed, accompanied by a few almonds and some toast with a honey-mustard currant spread. The cafe has a tendency to serve toast with various things lathered on it--you get a plate spread with mascarpone before you order, and I'm not sure it is worth the trouble. But the onion tart ($4.95) is--more like a flatbread "pizza," it consists of delicious condensed onion jam spread with farmer's cheese across the bread and rich bacon permeating the whole. Just as asparagus is making its way into our seasonal renewal, J&M fries up a batch with a tempura-like batter that sheathes the slender spears in lacy envelopes, providing an explosive two-layered crunch; nothing more than a bit of lemon is needed to complete this terrific starter.
There's one outstanding main course, which will suggest the dining room of a rustic family farmhouse more than a restaurant. Duck legs ($13.50) braised in mustard, wine, duck stock and olives will remind you of deep, maternal satisfactions; this is contentment food, the tender chunks of duck sharing space with white beans, greens and tomatoes. Simpler yet are a trio of pungent rabbit sausages ($8.95) in a white-wine stew of chanterelles, plumped about with a very satiny portion of mashed potatoes. I'm a fan of the slightly charred roast chicken ($10.50)--a sizable half bird with scallion-infused butter oozing from under the skin to moisten everything. Best of all, there's a brace of triangle-shaped fried chili grits on the side.
Dessert? Some tasty homemade vanilla ice cream with a variety of toppings--try the espresso and cream ($4.50), though you shouldn't skip the French press, which charmingly comes with a four-minute timer to make sure it comes out just right. One night we had a warm pear filbert pound cake ($4.50). Here's where J&M goes a bit overboard: Both the cake and the pear are served hot, which seems to be a curious mistake; the heated sauce alone would suffice.
Another odd surprise--with your check, you'll get a dish of frozen half-grapes. Who knows why.
It would be easy to become a regular for dinner at J&M. The friendliness of the small staff is palpable without being intrusive. They'll remember you and your preferences, and they'll explain the dishes with knowledge and sensitivity. With prices that are extremely reasonable, and a small but attractive wine list that's highly affordable, this is place feels just right for the times.
537 SE Ash St., 230- 0463
Open for breakfast 7:30-11:30 am Monday- Friday, 8 am-2 pm Saturday- Sunday; for lunch 11:30 am-2 pm Monday- Friday; and for dinner 5-9:30 pm Tuesday- Sunday. No credit cards. Children welcome. Moderate.
Picks: watercress salad, fried asparagus, duck legs, rabbit sausage, roast chicken, ice cream with espresso and cream
Nice touch: attentive service, inviting and casual atmosphere
WWeek 2015