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My mother believes gargling with Jack Daniel's is a
miracle cure for the common cold. Because of this quirk, passed down
through generations, by the age of 10 I had a taste for the stuff, even
if I didn't know how to savor it. So a local bourbon is exciting. But
Burnside Bourbon, a four-year bourbon procured and bottled at 96 proof
by Eastside Distilling (formerly Deco) isn't. Not because it's not
tasty, but because Eastside "procured" it from an undisclosed location,
then simply affixed its own old-timey label. It's not a bad bourbon,
opening with a pleasant vanilla and caramel nose that's approaching
candied sweetness yet has an oaky undertone. For a four-year aged
bourbon—half of the time of similarly priced Buffalo Trace—it's quite
smooth, with a spicy, cinnamon finish. But at $27, it's pricey for an
only average spirit of mysterious origins (we asked, their lips are
sealed), even one with a pretty label. Portland's young distillers will
pump out aged whiskeys soon enough. Good thing; I feel a cold coming on.
WWeek 2015