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June 20th, 2012 KIMBERLY HURSH | Drank
 

Burnside Bourbon (Eastside Distilling)

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My mother believes gargling with Jack Daniel’s is a miracle cure for the common cold. Because of this quirk, passed down through generations, by the age of 10 I had a taste for the stuff, even if I didn’t know how to savor it. So a local bourbon is exciting. But Burnside Bourbon, a four-year bourbon procured and bottled at 96 proof by Eastside Distilling (formerly Deco) isn’t. Not because it’s not tasty, but because Eastside “procured” it from an undisclosed location, then simply affixed its own old-timey label. It’s not a bad bourbon, opening with a pleasant vanilla and caramel nose that’s approaching candied sweetness yet has an oaky undertone. For a four-year aged bourbon—half of the time of similarly priced Buffalo Trace—it’s quite smooth, with a spicy, cinnamon finish. But at $27, it’s pricey for an only average spirit of mysterious origins (we asked, their lips are sealed), even one with a pretty label. Portland’s young distillers will pump out aged whiskeys soon enough. Good thing; I feel a cold coming on.

 
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