Barwares (4605 NE Fremont St., 971-229-0995, smallwarespdx.com) exists only because of an architectural fluke. Chef Johanna Ware’s Asian-leaning restaurant, Smallwares, needs a bar the same size as its dining room about as much as drowsy Beaumont Village needs a swanky place to hang at 2 am on a Tuesday. Given a lemon, Ware slices it and serves it as a twist over a cocktail made with rye whiskey and garam masala syrup ($8). The Barwares space is a modern beauty done on a budget—concrete, wood and HVAC handiwork with accents like the incongruous orange sofa on loan from Al Bundy. The service is better and the food is best. There’s always something special coming out of the kitchen—corn fried on the cob and drizzled with fish sauce was a favorite—but I’m happy with a strong cocktail and a bowl of candied peanuts.