It’s difficult to find a barometer by which to measure Kenny & Zuke’s new deli-bar hybrid, Deli Bar (3901 N Williams Ave., 287-0782). It’s certainly the only deli bar I’ve ever been to. It is likely the only deli bar anyone has ever been to. Should a deli bar have both a brightly lit cake-display fridge and a dark wood back bar of spirits and wines? Should it have candles on the table and boxes of bagels behind the counter? Should it have a soundtrack of early aughts R&B club hits? I cannot say. I can say that I enjoyed my Cel-Ray Collins ($7)—made with gin, lime juice and the eponymous East Coast soda—one of the few cocktails on the menu that nods to the deli side of the shtick (there’s also a daiquiri made with Manischewitz wine, and a whiskey shot with a pickle-juice back). The menu is a variation on what you’ll find at Kenny & Zuke’s other locations—and that includes the prices. A simple buttered bagel is $1.95, but otherwise, you’re looking at $9-$10 for most sandwiches. But, hey, maybe that’s normal for a deli bar. It’s definitely the finest one I’ve ever been to. But also the worst.