Breakside's Dry Irish Stout is shockingly simple next to the brewery's more exotic dark beers, which include Coconut Pumpkin Sweet Stout and a porter made with caraway, dill and fennel pollen. Why did such a boring brew medal at international competitions? Well, there's a reason Irishmen order Guinness as a "pint of plain." Though Guinness' imposing color has given it international mystique, it's actually quite wimpy: only 4.2 percent alcohol by volume, the same as Bud Light. Generally lighter in alcohol and calories than even lagers, Irish stouts are made with roasted unmalted barley. It's a safe bet ol' Arthur Guinness would take a shine to Breakside's black stuff, a 4.5 percent ABV beer that is indeed quite dry, with the subtle smokiness of full city roast coffee and a light dusting of cocoa powder. The beer is a staple at the original Northeast Dekum Street location but seems more appropriate at the austere new industrial space in Milwaukie. Recommended.