It’s dangerous to mix your vices: drinking and gambling, drinking and sex, drinking and bungee jumping…drinking and anything, really. So I approached Mulligan, from Tillamook’s new De Garde Brewing, a little warily. It is, after all, fermented in barrels used for demon gin, my light spirit of choice. “It tastes like Tillamook smells,” a drinking buddy said, referring to the wild yeast. But no: it tastes like the forest, from the pine of Polaris hops to the juniper-soaked wood of its barrels. The beer is interestingly aromatic, filling out often-needling hops with gin’s on-and-off notes, from liquor heat to hints of cardamom. The bottle feels undercarbonated compared to the keg pulls, but the beer is much less a mulligan than a long drive that bounced off a tree and onto the green. Recommended.