5425 NE 30th Ave., 841-6968, beastpdx.com.
[SAME OLD SHOW] The problem with Beast is one anybody should be so lucky to have. Everything that chef/owner Naomi Pomeroy plates in her 24-seat Concordia restaurant is exquisite, and your first go-round at her communal tables will be everything it’s hyped to be. The charcuterie plate has meaty tidbits arranged like the hours on a clock—with Pomeroy’s legendary foie-gras bon bon at the top spot—and is so rich you want to stop time to let the flavors linger. But it’s always that way. Successive visits start to feel like watching reruns of Sex and the City: It’s still a nice way to spend an evening, but you’ve been there before. Beast’s strict six-course, prix-fixe format limits the restaurant’s ability to update the experience. There’s also always a cheese plate with selections from Steve’s Cheese Bar. The first course is always soup. And there’s always some rube using a flash to photograph his food. It’s all damned delicious, but if you’re fortunate to go for a second or third time, you know how it’s going to end.
Ideal Meal: Just go with it.
Best Deal: If you’re shelling out $75 for a meal, you’re not here for bargains.
Pro Tip: Consider bringing a stadium cushion—Beast’s rigid wooden chairs are not suited for the extended sitting the menu requires.
Dinner seatings 6 and 8:45 pm Wednesday-Saturday and 7 pm Sunday by reservation only, brunch 10 am and noon Sunday. $$$$.