Like Mariah Carey's Merry Christmas, the lights on Peacock Lane and phone-book-thick editions of The Oregonian, spicy Christmas beers are something I love in December. Then they go away and, for 11 months, I don't miss them. But I will miss pFriem's Christmas ale when the keg at Southeast Portland's Bazi Bierbrasserie finally blows. And I'll still be trying to figure it out. This big dubbel-based holiday ale—8 percent ABV—is brewed with candi sugar, German Perle hops, coriander and Belgian ale yeast that does all kinds of fun things to my tongue. One sip, I'm sucking on a toffee. Then, I'm biting a chocolate-covered orange. Then, I'm licking the spoon that stirred an eggy, cinnamon-rich waffle batter. It's not pie in a glass so much as pie, cookies, cake and a few things I'm still trying to place. Recommended.