Astoria's Fort George Brewery is the most ambitious stout-maker in the state, releasing 14 different big, dark beers this month and throwing a "dark" festival out at the windy coast. This milk stout, named for a lyric from coastal rockers the Hackles, gets oatmeal in the mash and lactose in the boil. It's surprisingly crisp, lighter in body than most milk stouts and, truth be told, not terribly milky. Expect a cup of coffee with half a creamer cup and three packets of sugar.