1410 SE Stark St., 233-2337, 11 am-11 pm daily.

Meat, Cheese, Bread—Beer. So it goes. John Stewart's succinctly named beer and wine bar next to his hallowed sandwich shop is at first glance a beer snob's parlor, but on closer acquaintance reveals itself as more of a neighborhood bar, a place where noobs don't have to feel intimidated by daunting tasting vocabulary and turned-up noses. It's also a to-go bar, with specials on mixed 4- and 6-packs. But if you care to stay it doesn't get rowdy, so you can take your time tasting the large beer collection, from a German spruced traditional gose to a porter that tastes like chocolate milk. Be sure to visit the restroom, which is lined with retro wood plaques printed with unicorns, kitties and Elvis. Ask to see the backup plaques too; people keep stealing the ones from the restroom. AARON SPENCER.