14 NE 28th Ave., 239-3804. 5 pm-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 5 pm-1 am Friday-Saturday.
Angel Face is precious. The food is little and lovely from oyster to meuretteâ€”not surprising, since itâ€™s a product of Navarre and Luceâ€™s ownersâ€”the â€śwallpaperâ€ť turns out to be meticulously hand-painted, and the cocktail menu is trapped somewhere inside bar manager Kelley Swensonâ€™s head. Itâ€™s a neat little negotiation wherein you say something terribly douchey like â€śI want something gin, but savory?â€ť and he humors you with a lovely improvisation. The niceties seem almost destined to make the just-opened bar into a bit of an insidersâ€™ club, a place that comes with an admission price of slight bewilderment, but Swenson is an enthusiastic and friendly enough drink ambassador that the process is painless. Still, itâ€™s kind of like being inside a luxury pillbox. MATTHEW KORFHAGE.