There are more than 90 dudes named Steve Jones in Portland. We know, because we checked. But we're wondering if some of the Joneses might just be clones of Portland's famous cheesemonger. Because when we go into Mount Tabor's Cheese Bar, there's Steve Jones. When we go into the cheese window at the Commons' new brewpub, he's there, too. And there he was again at his West End sushi-themed cheesery, Chizu (1126 SW Alder St., chizubar.com). But Chizu—Japanese for "cheese"—is apparently Jones' effort to slow down. Chizu places Jones in the role of master chef Jiro Ono, presiding humbly at the center of his tastefully appointed, burnished-wood elbow of a bar serving up cider, beer, sake and wine. You can order individually among 30 personally selected cheese varieties that change almost daily, but smart customers will just leave it to the expert by ordering omakase and choosing their price. For $20, we received five decadent cheeses—garnished appropriately with walnut, fig, mustard and Little T crostini—including our favorite, a Fourme Aux Moelleux bleu that was an explosion of light sweetness and heady penicillin funk, with Vouvray wine from the Loire injected into its middle. A soft English Tunworth tasted like a whole salad of winter vegetables, dressing included. The cheeses weren't merely good—because face it, all cheese tastes pretty good—they all had immediate and recognizable character, like somebody in a Dickens novel. Hell, maybe there's only one Steve Jones after all.