 IMAGE: amy ouellette |
$$ Moderate. What’s not to love about one of our hardest-working—and sometimes hardest to figure out—dining establishments? First off, diners must decide whether to eat outside on the original Thai shack’s airy patio or inside the newer, more intimate Whiskey Soda Lounge (the long waits are usually shorter outside). Then you must navigate one of this town’s most unusual menus, packed with items more likely to be found on the streets of Southeast Asia than the streets of Southeast Portland. Challenging choices aside, it doesn’t really matter where you sit or what you order—it’s all comforting and delicious. That’s because chef Andy Ricker infuses even the simplest-looking items with the most amazing flavor, from addictive housemade shrimp chips to game hen that’s charcoal-roasted to perfection. Prices are beyond reasonable with nothing over $15, turning each meal here into a feast that’s as fit for the King of Siam as it is for a line cook on his night off. (BB)
Signature Dish: Cha Ca “La Vong,” a marinated catfish that’ll have you booking your first flight to the Hanoi restaurant that inspired this awe-inspiring dish.
Standouts: Piping-hot Kai Yaang (charcoal-roasted game hen), the incredibly diplomatic Pok Pok Affogato (condensed-milk ice cream, Vietnamese coffee and a Chinese cruller).
Regrets: Food aside, the outside space lacks creature comforts (like heat).
JimG
