NO-FRILLS SWILLS: Beer lovers certainly have their priorities straight. When WW last reviewed the Concordia Ale House (3276 NE Killingsworth St., 287-3929) almost three years ago, it was the Northeast bierhaus' lack of attention to aesthetics that dominated our distaste. And it would seem, even now, that the owners are right pleased with pandering to their customers' tunnel vision for beer. They're happy slapping a bunch of brewery signs on the walls, making the pool tables free and focusing intensely on the brewskis. "Oh, you have Avec les Bons Voeux, the lesser-known saison [a Belgian pale, $7 per pint] from the famous Brasserie Dupont? Don't mind if I do!" "Is that the Norwegian Nøgne Ø porter I saw in the Scandinavian issue of Beer Advocate for $7 a bottle? Indeed it is!" Granted, the food is very run-of-the-mill. A cheeseburger ($7.75) and chicken strips ($8) were nothing to write home about. But before you scoff at the beer snobbery, know that other draughts start at $4.25, and tall boys of Old German are $1.50 at happy hour. On the website, one person writes, "Concordia is the best overall beer place in Portland, period." With 22 taps and more than 150 bottles, I'm inclined to agree.