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Brunch Bites Back

Toast and Gravy take on dinner service, but in very different ways.


Food Reviews & Stories
Brunch is usually a bad omen. When restaurants known for dinner start offering up omelets, scrambles, frittatas, stratas or quiches, it means either they’re succeeding beyond capacity or they�   More
 
Wednesday, April 23, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Frice Pastry/Philippe’s Bread


Food Reviews & Stories
Ask Kurt Huffman how much his restaurant empire ChefStable used to spend on bread, and he’ll answer quickly: “A lot.” Bread markups are notoriously high, and for restaurateurs with a stake i   More
 
Wednesday, April 23, 2014 REBECCA JACOBSON

Candylands Before Time

The last two drugstore soda fountains in Portland.


Food Reviews & Stories
Sandy Boulevard is the Bob Barker of Portland thoroughfares, the one street that time has chosen not to visit. There are now only two old-time drugstore soda fountains left in Portland, and both   More
 
Wednesday, April 16, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Oslo in the Summertime

Dinner at Broder Nord is pleasant but strangely quiet.


Food Reviews & Stories
There’s an instinctual pause before reaching for the door handle. There’s scant proof of life behind the window. But back at the curb, a sandwich board advertises openness. The door gives. App   More
 
Wednesday, April 2, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

It’s Local Somewhere

The American Local is an intriguing blend of diner flavors.


Food Reviews & Stories
The American Local is neither American nor local—which is to say, it’s as American as it gets. Like Smallwares, which it mirrors on the Portland city map, this clean-lined modern space is heav   More
 
Wednesday, March 26, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

A Dispatch From the Pale Continent


Food Reviews & Stories
Dearest Anne, I hope this letter finds you well. Things are well here, especially as the sun has finally shown its bright face in this Pale Continent, a considerable improvement from the drearine   More
 
Wednesday, March 19, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Knuckle Sandwich


Food Reviews & Stories
Knuckle Sandwich’s grinders come cut into fist-size halves—fist-size if you happen to be a massive Sicilian enforcer—and they’re as forthright and sloppy as a street brawl. This old-scho   More
 
Wednesday, March 19, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Macaromania

Taste-testing Portland macarons.


Food Reviews & Stories
For a dessert built from a frail little shell of egg white, the macaron has proven surprisingly durable. Back in February 2010, the confection’s burgeoning popularity was documented by NPR’s   More
 
Wednesday, March 12, 2014 SAVANNAH WASSERMAN, KATHRYN PEIFER

Nick’s Big Beard

McMinnville Italian joint is second America’s Classic in Oregon.


Food Reviews & Stories
James Beard was a native Oregonian, but before last week only one restaurant in the state held the highest honor given in his name. In my opinion, that’s at least being deemed one of America��   More
 
Wednesday, March 5, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Jump the Stump

Changes are percolating at Stumptown—literally.


Food Reviews & Stories
When news broke in 2011 that Duane Sorenson’s caffeine fiefdom had been sold, many observers—this newspaper included—expected big changes at Stumptown Coffee Roasters and its cafes were immi   More
 
Wednesday, March 5, 2014 RUTH BROWN
 

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