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Gold Chain

In defense of Shari’s, America’s best freeway-exit diners.


Food Reviews & Stories
Portlanders rarely miss a chance to feel their hearts swell with civic pride, especially when it comes to unfancy food. While our upper tier is only what a city of our size and wealth requires—w   More
 
Wednesday, June 19, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

A Hill of Beans

Levant has a strong pitch, bats .350.


Food Reviews & Stories
Levant, chef Scott Snyder’s new Buckman restaurant in a former bakery, is a staid dining hall of warm wood, hot brick and neutral walls that seem to buff the room’s sound into a soft cushion o   More
 
Wednesday, June 5, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

The Cake Wars

Who among us is righteous enough to eat of the sacred buttercream Bible-beating Oregon bakers have denied gays?


Food Reviews & Stories
Sugar, flour, eggs and water are now munitions in America’s culture war. Or so you’d think from two Oregon bakeries that recently refused to make cakes for same-sex weddings, getting national    More
 
Wednesday, May 29, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Tarad Thai


Food Reviews & Stories
Tarad Thai’s interior looks like a ’70s Chiang Mai bodega designed by Hollywood, a home away from home to Viet-vet expats who moved to the Thai countryside to find their souls. And it is ind   More
 
Wednesday, May 29, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Lay Off the Sauce

No, Lake Oswego’s Pine Shed Ribs is not the best barbecue in Portland.


Food Reviews & Stories
Earlier this month, Stephen Colbert’s sister lost a congressional election to philandering former South Carolina Gov. Mark Sanford. In response, the TV host shunned his home state, declaring a   More
 
Wednesday, May 22, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Yellow Bellies

Which local mustards pass muster?


Food Reviews & Stories
Most shelves at the Made in Oregon store are stocked with the obvious: Jams made from native berries, our famous wines and cheeses, the blankets our pioneers traded to indigenous people before s   More
 
Wednesday, May 15, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Via Chicago


Food Reviews & Stories
It’s been seven years since I lived in Chicago, where I attended college, drinking too much Midwestern beer and cramming as much of the city’s famous stuffed pizza into my maw as my student bu   More
 
Wednesday, May 8, 2013 ANDREA DAMEWOOD

Way Off-Key

Quartet tries to bring true fine dining to Portland.


Food Reviews & Stories
In this unicorns-and-rainbows town, all the food carts are fabulous, and free-spirited chefs never fail to deliver mealtime magic on the cheap. Sycophants cheer the indie scene with the shrill fer   More
 
Wednesday, May 1, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

Rigoberto’s


Food Reviews & Stories
Rigoberto comes from a family that is large and well known, if not especially prestigious. Sitting snugly against a tire shop across from Grocery Outlet on Highway 99E in Milwaukie, Rigoberto’   More
 
Wednesday, May 1, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

In a Neat Little Roe

Former Fin chef Trent Pierce works wonders in Wafu’s back room.


Food Reviews & Stories
Going to Roe is a bit like passing into the Egyptian afterlife. Before you reach its peaceful space, you must first pass through the land of wish fulfillment—in this case, the lively food tunn   More
 
Wednesday, April 24, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE
 

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